![]() The easiest option would be to remove the ground cable on the under hood batteries and run a cable to the rear batteries to connect to the ground side there and place the shunt there. If you find both these conditions in the wiring, the installation of the Trimetric will require rewiring with a new heavy cable needed to be added from under the hood to the rear of the van to create a spot to install the shunt. ![]() Sometimes there will be two of these in parallel to double the max current for the circuit breaker. When you trace the wiring you will notice several self resetting circuit breakers in the wiring at various spots which can trip under high current but reset themselves. The second wiring item that will cause a Trimetric installation problem is if the positive power cable from the underhood generator is connected to the underhood batteries rather than going to the rear of the van where it might attach to a single positive connection on the batteries where you might be able to install the shunt. If this is the case, the front and rear batteries have separate grounds and there is no place to install the Trimetric shunt in its normal location on a single ground point used for all the batteries. Here are the things to check.Ĭonfirm that there is a ground cable on the underhood batteries and no other cable connected to the negative side of the two 6 volt batteries that are connected in series. As I noted above, the way your van is wired will determine if it is easy to install a Trimetric or not so easy. If you are interested in connecting with a larger group of Roadtrek owners to share info, consider joining the Roadtrek Owners Group on Facebook.Ĭlick to expand.I recall your question on the Roadtrek Owners Group. ![]() If you can figure out where to connect the shunt and route the wires the installation is pretty easy. Again, see if you can confirm the positive side connections. There could be an issue with being able to do this if there are two positive connections, for instance, if the engine generator is connected to the underhood batteries and the other positive connections are on the rear batteries. I believe there is an option to put the shunt on a single point positive connection on the bank but you should check this with Bogart. See if you can confirm whether or not there are two ground connections. ![]() The Trimetric shunt is normally connected to a battery bank where a single ground path is available from the battery bank where the shunt can be placed to insure that the total current can be measured at a single connection point. The issue you could have on the 4 battery configuration is that there may be separate ground connections for the two underhood batteries and the two rear batteries. Thanks - have learned a lot here and on the various forums how best to run the wiring through to the cab and to the meter where/how to install the shunt (and hence the wiring) - the only pictures I have seen are for internal battery situations with wooden cases - not the situation on the CS) We are using the wet cells in a work shed solar installation.īeing new to the RV and RT world, we have read far too much internet traffic about the problems and joys, but one thing I would like to do is to see about installing the generally praised Trimetric meter to get a better handle on what is going on with electricity other than the 4 idiot lights. We are not quite sure what the original failure on the front pair was, but when we replaced all 4 with new AGMs, the rear pair did show bubbling in of the cases(!). When we got the CS in January with 3200 miles, it had 2 new wet cell batteries in the engine compartment and the 2 original AGMs in the rear. We have a new to us 2014/2015 CS Adventurous with the GU option (extra alternator and 4 batteries) and no solar.
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